Living in the heart of the Tankwa Karoo
An extraordinarily characterful 1850s Karoo homestead, Tankwa River Lodge is in the heart of the ‘thirst lands’ of the Northern Cape, a true escape from the world.
Flanked by two palms and an old pepper tree, this sensitively restored stone farmhouse is ideal for those seeking some real down time with a group of up to twelve loved ones. As soon as you head out to Sutherland, at the turn off at Matjiesfontein, the ancient Karoo landscape works its magic. The road weaves through harsh but beautiful hills, opening up as you cross the boundary into the Northern Cape and head left on 33kms of dirt road, ending at Blaauwheuwel Farm. Open the gate and follow the white stones downhill, past the quiver tree, until you reach the historic werf, at the heart of this 2 600-hectare Karoo farm.
A surprisingly lush garden of succulents and pistachio-coloured fever trees greets you, and if you arrive at dusk the firepit will be blazing with a welcoming fire. This will become your gathering point until late into the night, when the brightest stars flicker above in the blackest skies. The 150-year-old homestead is off-grid, and while solar power keeps things current, as night falls you will find yourselves opting for soft candlelight, in keeping with the farm’s yesteryear ambiance. Summer evenings are a balmy affair and doors and windows are flung open wide to welcome in the freshest farm air imaginable. And on chilly winter’s evenings, when everyone’s ready to turn in, the old farmhouse has plenty of open fireplaces and thick throws to keep toes toasty ‘til morning. Nights here are punctuated by nature’s sounds… honking geese, croaking frogs and the odd jackal wailing in the night.
Tankwa River Lodge is an eclectic mix of many beautiful collectables. The owner has been gathering treasures over time, with old cupboards and shelves stacked with vintage kitchenware, kilims and antique rugs covering the stone floor and Nguni hides over the simple screed. Life has stood still here for certain, but not the lifestyle! You’ll find all modern comforts and want for nothing, as it’s a much-loved hideaway.
Silence, stars and succulents…
Summers are properly baking hot… swimwear, a kikoi and your Havianas is all you’ll need. There’s a welcoming plunge pool to cool off in, where the kids can splash and play, plenty of shade and heaps of comfy, laid-back couches for reading and playing board games. Pack your coziest nightwear if visiting in winter as at nighttime it can get freezing cold – this is one of the coldest areas in the country, with snow frequently spotted on the mountains. Even in the middle of winter though you may experience the hottest Karoo days – be ready for anything!
While at Tankwa the super farm managers will take your party for a daily nature drive. Early evening drives are particularly loved by guests; watching the sun set over the vast Karoo landscape is spectacular. Expect to see plenty of game on the farm, it is well stocked with springbok and gemsbok. You may also be lucky enough to see some less common game, such as kudu, common duiker, aardvark, jackal, rooikat, aardwolf, African wildcat, scrub hare, bat-eared fox and mongoose, although these animals are far more elusive. The Tankwa region is known for great birding and there are approximately 180 bird species in the area.
An extra bonus is Lady, the resident horse; she roams free and often comes visiting for carrots and apples, delighting your little people!
What we love!
- The absolute tranquillity and solitude… except for the farm workers there are no people or properties in view.
- That there’s luxury of a plunge pool for the sizzling heat of summer days.Â
- Going for sunset drives on the farm. The views are classic Karoo, and evenings are golden when the air cools and the mountains silhouette against the evening sky.Â
- Sitting round the blazing fire pit for hours, drinking the good wine and telling stories long into the night: this is the epicentre of life at this homestead.
- The lack of light pollution makes the Tankwa Karoo a sublime spot for star-gazing. Sutherland’s astronomical observatory (SAAO) is 80-85kms away, as the night skies here are some of the world’s clearest and darkest. There is a fascinating night star-gazing tour, best booked ahead and weather dependent.Â
What you need to know…
- Tankwa Karoo Lodge is approx four hours’ drive from Cape Town. The last hour from the main road is a gravel road. However, except for VERY low clearance vehicles this is not an issue.
- The water tastes a little brackish and is drinkable but it’s borehole water (slightly earthy taste), so please bring your own drinking water. Ice is supplied.Â
- There is no cell phone reception once you leave the N2 at Matjiesfontein. This beautifully preserved village (and railway station) is definitely worth a stop on your way here to explore. Besides being of historical interest, it’s also at the heart of new developments in space exploration with NASA.Â
- There is strong, reliable WiFi at the homestead so WhatsApp calls are possible and working remotely is such a pleasure here!
- Take a night off kitchen duty – or even your whole stay! The farm managers can offer catered options. Please note catering must be arranged at least a week prior to arrival.Â
- One nature drive every second day by the super farm managers is included in the rate. Please note the Land Rover can only accommodate nine guests.Â
- Extra nature drives can be arranged, minimum four guests, at an additional cost. Sundowner drives are sublime, and the Land Rover is fitted with cool boxes and cups, plastic wine glasses, bowls, knives, cutting board, bottle opener etc. if you wish to self-cater. Catered option available on request.
- The farm is available in its entirety for guests to walk, self-drive or cycle. There are numerous mountain bike trails on the farm (ask the management team for a map of the farm before you set out). The river is seasonal. Pack hats and plenty of sunscreen.
- It’s only 19kms to the gate of the 146 000ha Tankwa National Park, part of the Succulent Karoo Biome and also good for game viewing. Please note: there’s no fuel in the park and high clearance is required. From October to March it’s open from 5.30am to 7pm and April to September from 6.30am to 6pm.
- Gannaga Pass is worth driving, as is the Ouberg Pass (4×4), if you’re keen to explore the Tankwa Karoo. Have a look at the folder in the house for more details. The characterful Tankwa Padstal (R355) – a farm shop 100km from Ceres, is also worth a stop if you approach from the Ceres side.Â
- Never visited the Karoo? Read more about this ancient landscape in our blog: Where on earth is the Karoo?
- If Tankwa River Lodge isn’t available on your dates, you might want to browse our Karoo collection or other properties in the Tankwa Karoo.  Â
- Tankwa River Lodge is available to book as a Shoot Location.Â
Edited by Michelle Snaddon