We spot two well-fed lionesses sunning themselves on its banks on the way in, and do eight river crossings before arriving at this delightful new safari camp with only five luxurious tents, each one well positioned to give absolute privacy.
Our decks face 1 800-million-year-old cliffs of red stone so ancient they have no fossils. Clinging to the ledges are elegant paperbark trees and a wild fig. A lone elephant bull makes his way slowly across the hillside above the cliffs, a sight we were to see time and again during our stay.
Here the cliffs are older than the 50-million-year old Himalaya, Andes and Rockies, amplifying the unmistakable grunt of a leopard and baboon warning barks that ricochet across the valley just as we set out on our first morning game drive.
It was hard to leave but we returned to find another herd of elephant making their way down the hillside to enjoy the pools in front of the lodge, so we choose instead to relax, read and recharge in our tented suite that afternoon, pausing occasionally to check the ‘stage’ opposite and spot a waterbuck, klipspringer and more elephant.
It was the best decision, even though traversing the spectacular route up the high Gherboks Pass again (pronounced ‘gearbox’ for good reason) was tempting, as was the possibility of seeing cheetah again (there are nine cubs on the reserve at the moment). Of course, after an early rise, there’s nothing better than a siesta here – you’re literally lulled to sleep by the sound of the river.
Inzalo is named after the flat-topped Wild Syringa, the tree most characteristic of the Welgevonden, part of the UNESCO protected Waterberg Biosphere. Equally prolific are the Boekenhout trees but we fall in love with the Lavender Fever-berry, with a scent so distinctively similar to its namesake, and the pods of the Velvet Bushwillow (also known as the toilet paper tree for its soft leaves!).
The Welgevonden’s diversity and beauty is both surprising and varied, with fern-filled gulleys opening to wide grassy plains, hillsides strewn with iron-red rocks and beautiful grasses waving in the wind. We stop to drink a home-distilled botanical gin at sundowers, made by owner Dave Reiger himself, while eating the most delicious parma ham, pear and blue cheese skewers.
He and his partner Henriette, both generous and knowledgeable hosts, are passionate about their investment here. They love the bush and the Welgevonden, and it shows in every aspect of our stay.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon