A taste of Paris in rural McGregor
A luxurious sanctuary lovingly created by an interior designer and landscape architect in rural McGregor, just off Route 62 and the Robertson Valley, is a charming French-style country hideaway.
It was the longest swimming pool in the village that first caught our eye, elegantly flanked with checkerboard tiling and topiary. Prolific white iceberg roses nodding gently in the breeze, bees buzzing in the lavender beneath mature olive trees, lei water channels tinkling through the garden, church bells ringing. Inside, the unmistakable scent of thatch, elegant antique armoires sourced in markets and antique shops in Paris, swoon-worthy bathrooms of ultra-luxe, boutique-hotel proportions…
You could be in rural France, yet the authentic Karoo or Cape Dutch vernacular roots one firmly in the Cape, in this little village that’s just two hours’ drive from Cape Town and part of the Robertson Wine Route. Dry-packed stone walls, gardens with abundant lemon, pomegranate, peach and apricot trees, heavily laden quince hedges and flourishing olive and almond groves line dusty country lanes unchanged over decades.
‘We were introduced to McGregor by our dear neighbours at Clifton beach, the Meltz’s, who fell in love with a Georgian gem known as McGregor Manor, a few years ago. We’ve been coming here ever since,’ explain owners, Alastair and Stephen Rich. ‘Now we live in Antibes for much of the year, but the spell of McGregor has well and truly captured our hearts… we come back regularly. It’s the quietness we love so much, resting your soul. It’s the sense of community, the warmth of friendships with like-minded people. You go for two days, and it feels like you’ve been away a month,’ says Stephen.
The restoration of the bedroom suites and building the new pool and pool house took a mere 14 months, but the original thatched middle cottage remains. A feat indeed, but their entire team moved from Joburg to live in McGregor during the transformation, which included the beautiful garden – now matured and abuzz with bees, butterflies and birds all year. We gave it ‘lipstick, powder and paint – except it took so much more,’ laughs Alastair. Indeed. So much more.
Together they sourced all the antiques and objets in France – even the little porcelain birds on the dining room light fitting (custom designed by Stephen) were bought in Antibes. ‘I’m particularly drawn to Pierneef, especially for the Cape settings,’ he says of his long-time passion. ‘Some I’ve been gifted, others found, but I feel like they finally belong here.’
It’s a delight to discover the armoires stacked with crockery in every shade of green, and the kitchen with the Portmeirion Botanic collection that’s been collected over the past 20 years. ‘The kitchen green was the most difficult hue to get right, but I love it as it reminds me of McGregor olive trees, vineyards and fruit orchards,’ says Stephen.
Cocooned and discreetly luxurious
Maison du Canard’s offering is luxurious: a departure (and an utter delight) for McGregor. Expect magically lit and topiary-landscaped gardens awash with lavender blooms in spring, and fragrant white jasmine and iceberg roses in the heat of summer, plus pool lights for night swimming, the meditative sounds of a water feature and thick lawn underfoot – a real luxury in McGregor.
Breathe in the cleanest and driest air, watch yellow weavers jostle with red bishops and seed eaters of all sizes at the bird feeders, let the warm caress of summer wash over you. Dip and dip again, flop wet and happy under chic black-and-white striped brolly’s, sip a glass of the valley’s flinty whites, or discover some of the best reds in the land. Recharge and rejuvenate. Simply let McGregor heal and restore.
What we love!
- Hands down, time spent lounging on the chaises beside this glam pool! Long laps, dipping time and again in the sizzling summer heat. Lunch or even dinner at the pool house – thoughtfully kitted with a large gas bbq, mini fridges filled with ice-cold drinks, comfy sofas and everything you need to lounge here for the day. Take a look at the two Norman O’Flynn’s, known for his acrylics on Plexiglass.
- Interior-designer-owner attention to detail, art-filled walls and sculpture, Hermès blankets to luxurious linens, indulgent bathrooms… capacious suites in their own right!
- Maison du Canard’s garden is always alive with flittering and colourful birds. Watch as they dive into the feeders as you take in one of the most soothing and elevated outlooks in this sleepy yet surprisingly trendy village. Expect mesmerising views over the pool and trees towards the steeple and mountains beyond.
- Walking in the mornings and late evenings: on Sunday mornings, you’re bound to hear the local band and church bells ring. At dusk, the mountains fade in the prettiest pinky blues – the magical layering many a watercolour artist has captured over the years.
- Brunch at 51 is always a treat: great vibe, great company and delicious country food. Superb deli goodies too. Open Fri to Mon, 9am to noon only, at 51 Voortrekker Street. @51_mcgregor
- Just next door is M n M, where you’ll find McGregor’s famous olive leaf extract from nearby Rhebokskraal olive farm.
- Across the road and pop into Blanc & Co for beautiful clothing and their heavenly Scent Experience offers an essential oil bath and body range. Scent Skincare launching online shortly. @blanc_and_co_za
- Or head up the road to Wiki Candles at The Old Post Office on the corner (that shares a bougainvillea clad stoep with the village’s hidden whisky bar). You’ll be drawn by the scent of beeswax candles of all sizes, a real find. @wiki_candles
- The walk up through The Krans Nature Reserve that borders the eastern side of McGregor, leading to the dam with its endless mountain views and the gravel road leading to the start of the McGregor to Greyton trail.
What you need to know…
- The pool is 26m long and is not fenced but can be covered with a net. The garden is borehole irrigated, always a lush oasis.
- There is excellent security and the housekeeper lives on site. Daily housekeeping is done in the morning, but additional services may be arranged.
- Tibaldi’s at Temenos is always great for dinners (open Wed to Sat from 6pm), but to be honest there’s no kitchen quite like home at Maison du Canard (fab appliances and gorgeous crockery). A joy to cook in, and the garden a joy to eat in! Il Piccolo is open for breakfast and lunch, Tues to Sunday, 8am to 3pm: known for its delicious pastries and fresh breads.
- If you’re planning a day trip back into Robertson, the owners highly recommend Ragazzi Restaurant at Beuld (also a wedding venue) in Roodehoogte for dinner – modern Italian menu and superb views. Open Tues to Sat, 5pm to 10pm.
- McGregor Winery (on the left, a few kms before the village) closes 5pm Fridays, 1pm Saturdays. Try the un-oaked Calcrete Chardonnay, unique to the Robertson Valley: ‘saline and minerally, with fresh lime notes. Or stock up on the red or white muscadel – excellent if chilled for a hot summer’s day.
- Personalised wine, grappa and eau de vie tastings at Tanagra Wines are Monday to Saturday, by appointment only. Handcrafted, environmentally friendly wines, three of which have 4-star Platter awards. Small yields, natural yeasts (no enzymes added).
- Pack your gravel or mountain bikes. McGregor village is also a wonderful place for kids to ride, and all the delis and restaurants are a short ride (or walk) away.
- If Maison du Carnard isn’t available on your dates, browse our other luxury accommodation in our collection of charming McGregor hideaways.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon