Indeed, there’s something rather otherworldly about entering the palace grounds and being told to take a left turn, leaving the crowds behind and driving through this extravagantly baroque 18th-century estate, the seat of the Dukes of Marlborough and a vast park land with ancient oak woodlands and beautiful gardens, over a river and past stately stag or a bevy of deer before reaching Lince Lodge.
An historic 1767 beauty built of Cotswold stone; this welcoming lodge is anything but gentrified. ‘Open the front door to discover the cosiest interior that’s delightfully artsy and quirky’ says Helen Untiedt, co-founder of Perfect Hideaways. ‘It makes you smile … and certainly, if you like minimal, it’s not for you.’
Lince’s abundant use of colour in the Alice in Wonderland-style kitchen actually took its lead from a specially commissioned wall illustration that brought back memories of murals by Ludwig Bemelmans, the creator of the classic Madeline children’s books, on the walls of legendary Bemelmans Bar in New York’s Carlyle from the owners’ 25th wedding anniversary. Art has always been woven into the fabric of their lives: above the bright orange sofa is the late David Spiller’s ‘Take Me Home’, and the hanging Louis Vuitton ‘Cocoon’ chair by Campana Brothers is an artwork in itself.
This year, their anniversary was celebrated in the new glasshouse beyond the sauna, built secretly for a surprise midwinter dinner. It’s a reminder of the beautiful glasshouse in the owner’s garden at Le Jardin in the Cape winelands in South Africa, which they love so much but couldn’t visit over Christmas. Instead, a replica was built at Lince Lodge, complete with an artisanal, dual firebox WildTable, designed by film director Guy Ritchie, aka the Cashmere Caveman, and featured in The Gentleman. It’s a thing of beauty: a versatile outdoor cooking unit with all the bells and whistles, including a Teppanyaki plate and a chimney that whisks away smoke and sparks. Ideal for a glasshouse. A glasshouse with a vintage train set that runs around the top, its engine a vintage find in Buenos Aires on their travels…
Cooking and eating outdoors is big here in summer, with breakfast or lunch often enjoyed in the Orangerie. Chef Tom Taylor, who used to cook for Guy Ritchie, can be booked… imagine delicious dishes cooked in The Harrison Oven (Ottolenghi swears by it) or open-fire cooking over the fire pit and multi-level barbeque.
And if you’ve watched the recent release of Napoleon, you’ll recognise that much of it was filmed at Blenheim Palace, with the ball in the Great Hall. The list is impressive… scenes from Bridgerton’s Season 3, Queen Charlotte, Harry Potter, James Bond, Cinderella, Gulliver’s Travels, Mission Impossible and even Indiana Jones were filmed here.
There’s a tongue-in-cheek invitation to play at Lince, to let go, and to truly relax in a warm and inviting home where the Hästens beds, the dreamiest quilts, Frette linen and Hermès blankets will have you sleeping like a baby. Revitalised, you’ll start the day with an early walk, waking gently as you wander past South African Guy du Toit’s bronze ‘Thinking Hares’ on the lawn, and down the garden to Marieke Prinsloo-Rowe’s life-size bronze of a 10-year-old girl, one from a series of 18 called ‘Walking the Road’ that tells the story of the young swimmer who wished to fly like a dragonfly she met.
The life of lords, lairds and ladies…
Whether you’re in the mood for fishing, rowing or stand-up paddleboarding on the lake, or brunch in one of the whimsical safari tented experiences on the Blenheim Palace estate, the experience here is all yours to craft. You could just stay put and revel in the luxury of your own sauna and Japanese ice water bath, pour a glass of bubbly and enjoy the steaming Størvatt hot tub, or take your lead from the bronze swimmer and enjoy a refreshing dip in the lake.
Come autumn or winter, when the fire downstairs is the best place to curl up and read after a day spent antique hunting in nearby Woodstock. As night falls, when a deep candlelit bubble bath is in order, Lince Lodge is a real spoil. ‘It’s wonderful to be immersed in the very grand lifestyle of Blenheim Palace. It’s just gorgeous. Felt very coddled,’ said Helen. ‘Lince Lodge makes people laugh and feel indulged.’
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon