Seeing cape town through our eyes

by Michelle Snaddon

Seeing Cape Town through the eyes of a local, often means flipping the script…

At Perfect Hideaways, we’ve never followed the usual route – we went off-grid before it was cool, and now we’re inviting you to rediscover the Mother City from the quieter southern tip upwards. Start where the ocean roars and the fynbos blooms, then wander your way into the city’s vibrant heart. Cape Town feels different this way – slower, deeper, wonderfully surprising.

Follow us as we weave our way around our beautiful peninsula in a new blog series:

Southern Peninsula favourites

You could spend four or five days ambling between these seaside gems in the Southern Peninsula, but even if you’re staying in a beach house for the weekend, you’ll be smitten by the time you leave. There’s a laid-back charm that never fades here, but the secret is to stay so that you don’t have to drive. Walk, jog, take the train even… and leave the car keys at home.

Start as early as the Muizenberg surfers who see in the dawn from the crest of a wave, and make time for St James, Kalk Bay and Simon’s Town where you’ll enjoy their café lifestyle, cobbled back streets and historic architecture – not to mention tidal pools and pretty beaches dotted all along the coast.

Villa Santiago (top) and Bungalow St James (above) are owned by the same talented pair: a stay here is an inspiration

Muizenberg and St James to Kalk Bay

Most visitors to Cape Town do a day trip out here, but those of us who live here wish they would linger longer and truly embrace the slow travel, slow living ethos of this truly beautiful and wild part of the peninsula. Waking up to the fragrance of the mountain fynbos or falling asleep to the shushing sounds of the sea changes everything.

Cape Town’s best preserved historic seaside villages buzz day and night just moments away from tranquil mountain walks
 

Live like a local

Being able to walk the streets of historic Kalk Bay before the tourists arrive, heading to Olympia Bakery as the scent of freshly baked croissants and their knock-out macadamia pastry fills the air, is mandatory! Don’t miss the open-air gallery wall just outside, often depicting the work of locals or the history of Kalk Bay.

While you’re here, slip up the steps to Kalk Bay Modern art gallery as soon as it opens. Besides the art, textiles, ceramics and jewellery, it has the best views over the harbour. Or walk up to Windsor Street to 11 on Windsor to the newest Très Nagual shop – purveyors of natural perfumes.

If you don’t have coffee at Salt, return later and order the ceviche or lamb and burnt sage ravioli with the locals – best to go early evening before it gets non-stop busy (no bookings) – or order seafood linguine at Olympia Café.

Portuguese food lovers? Kalk Bay’s Beira Mar is as packed as Kalky’s, the local community favourite in the harbour, but the Happy Rooster is the newcomer above the historic Muizenberg Station.

Saunter from gallery to gallery, boutique to boutique, and lunch or swim along the way

Cold-water swimmers and surfers welcome

Do the legendary tidal pool hop – there are at least 19 around the peninsula but our six favourites in the Southern Peninsula are St James, Kalk Bay, Glencairn, Miller’s Point and Buffel’s Bay (inside Cape Point Nature Reserve), but the most popular with families is St James’s tidal pool next to the Folk Cafe.

Popular Dalebrook Pool opposite Chardonnay Deli

Dalebrook Pool attracts groups of friends and the hardy swimmers – with delicious breakfasts at Chardonnay Deli afterwards being the pull. A ‘coffice’ for many – clients frequently pack their cozzies for a post-meeting swim. Woolley’s Pool, between Kalk Bay harbour and Clovelly, is quieter with beautiful views towards Fish Hoek and Simon’s Town.

Got kids who want to learn to surf? Take a surfing lesson at Muizenberg Beach, with coffee or ice creams afterwards along its Art Deco, Edwardian and Victorian beachfront restaurants. Or go late and finish off with a casual supper at The Commons while listening to jazz.

Kalk Bay’s little boutiques and cafes are always buzzing

Coffee and café culture

Coffee snob? You’ll find Deluxe coffee set in an historic villa behind Lakeside Provisions where you’ll also find a health menu at Zola’s Kitchen Deli. Tables are set out in the quiet garden behind.

People-watch at Ohana Beach Café with your feet in the sand as the train rumbles by. Mzuri Mamas’s is so close that you can buy a gift when you’re waiting for your food to be served or drift the other way and into the antique shop just behind Ohana’s bustling kitchen.

Love vinyl? Don’t miss Slow Life Records, the sliver of a vinyl shop next to the gorgeous Jane Valken or the proudly SA Big Blue. Catacombs and Oh So Boho are both worth a visit. But an all-time favourite for beautiful linen clothing and jewellery is Soul Design, and don’t miss Miss, Mrs & Friends, the lovely corner shop at the Majestic Village (you can’t miss this pink landmark).

More interested in the art galleries to beat the heat? Browse the Artvark Gallery and stop for lunch at the shaded Kalk Bay Courtyard restaurant next door.

Or head for coffee and a browse in the gallery at Bob’s Bagels (by far the best post-hike or morning-jog stop for salmon- and scrambled-egg bagels) or pop into De Kalkery, next door, in the old church. Upstairs, the artisanal chocolate company, Honest Chocolate, does killer choccie treats and drinks.

Maré House is set on a little-known tidal pool, just beyond Kalk Bay harbour

Booked a hideaway along this historic stretch?

Our secret suppliers and spots: Organic Zone is your one-stop-shop for health foods and organic produce or swing the other way and visit the Neighbourhood Farm Shop in Paris Road in Fish Hoek for just plucked veggies from their fields and fresh health juices made while you shop.

Drop in to Kalk Bay Harbour for fresh fish, but if you miss the arrival of the fishing boats, head for The Little Fisherman next to the excellent Woolies in the old bakery building in Lakeside.

Picturesque Kalk Bay harbour

Day trips from Muizenberg, St James or Kalk Bay

Why not pack a picnic lunch for Cape Point (or buy delicious ready-made rolls, quiche and pastries from Olympia Café (through the side door to the bakery, facing the parking), or pop in for tea at the Scone Shack or Scarborough. End with a surf or beach walk in Kommetjie, before heading back towards Noordhoek’s rural pastures for an early dinner while watching the sun set. More detailed info in our series of short blogs….

Blog #2 coming soon: Clovelly to Simon’s Town, the home of the African Penguin.

Looking to buy a house in this beautiful spot? Contact the Perfect Hideaways Real Estate team now!

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