The village that became a hotel: Castiglioncello del Trinoro is not only Val d’Orcia’s most romantic Tuscan escape but a cultural magnet for lovers of music and art. More recently, it has expanded its world-class spa and wellness retreat.
Discovered In 2005 by its American-lawyer-turned-hotelier owner, Michael Cioffi, who had returned to explore his ancestry in Italy, Monteverdi’s ancient buildings needed a brave visionary to restore them to their former glory.
Steeped in history and with a church dating back to the 14th century, it’s taken over 10 years to restore this medieval hilltop gem in Tuscany with architect and interior designer Ilaria Miani who has been passionate about renovating and breathing life into some of Italy’s abandoned architectural jewels over the past twenty years.
Today, it exudes a relaxed elegance that’s authentic Italy: the softest linens and natural palettes offset ancient beamed ceilings and original stone walls within three immaculately restored buildings that now make up the hotel in the village.
Two private houses, the two-bedroomed San Pietro and the three-bedroomed Amiata, are available exclusively. Amiata is spread over three floors, ideal for couples or a multigenerational family, with an indulgent main bathroom and well-kitted kitchen. One of the typical Tuscan homes in the village has six bedrooms.
Many say it’s worth making the trip here for the food alone. We love Monteverdi’s ethos: ‘Every bit, every ingredient, every sip is a love letter to Italy.’ Executive Chef Riccardo Bacciottini brings with him the experience of Michelin-starred kitchens around the world, yet his approach here is of a culinary tradition ‘reimagined through a modern lens’.
But we also love that you can take a cookery class right here in the village’s former schoolhouse with Culinary Director Giancarla Bodoni and her team.
There are three courses a week: Tuscan cooking, cheese making and the fundamentals of pasta, each ending with a meal created during the course and wine to celebrate. Or you can visit rural cheese farms or learn how extra virgin olive oil is harvested and pressed with wine tasting along the way.
There is, of course, so much to see in the Val d’Orcia, especially if you have a car… from historic hilltop towns with Etruscan tombs to explore, to the many culinary and outdoor experiences nearby… all of which Monteverdi’s in-house concierge team (with an extensive LBB) will assist with.
You might want to go e-biking or on a guided hike in the nearby Pietraporciana nature reserve, or even try your hand at flower arranging. Or perhaps explore nearby Pienza, a beautiful Renaissance town and the home of Pecorino cheese, or charming Montepulciano, both less touristed than Siena.
Chauffeur driven excursions are a delightful way of exploring, especially if you’d like to do a wine tasting along the way.
However, most guests soon retreat to the new spa and wellness centre and discover that spa therapies include artisanal massages and rituals with the finest aromatic oils and salts from Santa Maria Novella (heavenly!), while expert aestheticians will consult on personalised skin treatments. Daily yoga and Qi Gong classes are held in the studio or spa gardens.
Stay here long enough and you’ll emerge rejuvenated and energised – one of the many reasons that settling in at Monteverdi for at least a week has its advantages.
Cioffi once said to Vogue that he liked guests to experience what he calls ‘epicurean wellness’ here – his way, they said, ‘of explaining the idea that enjoying a plate of pici all’aglione and a Bach cello suite along with rejuvenation and relaxation leads to happiness’. We couldn’t agree more.
A curated world of art and music
However, the real heart of Monteverdi is a passion for music and art: for years, it has seen musicians perform in this beautiful Tuscan village, with a new concert series every year.
And if you’re interested in art, you would want to know that Sarah McCrory, the former curator of Frieze, also curates Monteverdi’s contemporary art gallery.
The vision behind Monteverdi’s culturally rich offering and ethos? ‘Art inspires. It evokes emotion. It takes you to a place that is transformative, be it the opera, a painting, or a single note from a violin. We inspire the heart and mind with world-class art that takes you to a new appreciation of beauty.’ Only in Italy.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon
Hotel: IT052031A1LHVV2SVV
PVH Amiata and San Pietro: IT052031B4C2QKBGW2