Staring up at the stars with the mighty Zambezi drifting beneath me, frogs croaking and hippos grunting in the distance. I couldn’t have been happier. Settled on the banks of the Zambezi River, ensconced in the wilderness of Livingstone in Zambia, Royal Chundu embraces the mist from the Victoria Falls, and dishes up a truly remarkable safari experience.

Royal Chundu is Zambia’s only Relais & Chateaux property for good reason: the food is heavenly. And, whether your arrival is by helicopter, car or boat, as mine was that day, there’s nothing more soothing than alighting on the jetty. Being welcomed onto Katombora Island with a refreshing cocktail, followed by a lunch that exceeded all expectations. I opted for the roasted pear and blue cheese starter followed by chef Sungani Phiri’s most sublime fish curry. All the time sitting mesmerised by the powerful rippling tide of water heading for the big plunge downstream, where spray plumes mushroom like rain clouds above the thundering Victoria Falls.

Commanding a private and pristine stretch of the mighty Zambezi, the Island Lodge is without doubt one of the most tranquil safari settings and it only sleeps 8 so it’s small enough to book exclusively. And if you’re up for it, you can even do a sleep-out on a platform above the rapids on the northernmost tip of the island – the ultimate way to connect with nature – followed by a spa treatment. In fact, I would plan to do very little here. Sit back in a hanging chair and read, rest and rejuvenate the soul and go out each evening for the sundowner cruise.

Chef’s flat, roasted parmesan and handmade butternut crisps fly out of the bowls first, and by the time the G&Ts are poured you’re on the other side of the river facing Matetsi’s game-filled shores on the Zimbabwean side. Elephant, hippo and crocs are prolific here. As you return, you’ll spot the lanterns being lit at the nearby family friendly River Lodge, all part of the 15 kilometres of pristine river frontage of Royal Chundu. Evening dinners are undeniably romantic, and privacy is always top of mind.

Embracing the thundering smoky haze

Interestingly, both Royal Chundu and Matetsi are managed by the owner’s daughters: in this case dynamic Tina Aponte’s style and passion for the lodges is reflected by her staff who are bubbly, caring and capable of making anything happen. Built by her father but inspired by her adventure-loving grandmother who set out to settle in the unchartered wilderness of Africa along with the family silver and antiques, Tina has kept up the tradition, always bringing in personal touches at Royal Chundu. It’s no surprise then that it’s just been voted 4th Best Resort in Africa and an awesome 9th in the World in the Condé Nast Traveler’s 2018 Reader’s Choice Awards. Richly deserved!

Written by Michelle Snaddon