It was the longest swimming pool in the village that first caught our eye, elegantly flanked with checkerboard tiling and topiary. Prolific white iceberg roses nodding gently in the breeze, bees buzzing in the lavender beneath mature olive trees, lei water channels tinkling through the garden, church bells ringing. Inside, the unmistakable scent of thatch, elegant antique armoires sourced in markets and antique shops in Paris, swoon-worthy bathrooms of ultra-luxe, boutique-hotel proportions…
You could be in rural France, yet the authentic Karoo or Cape Dutch vernacular roots one firmly in the Cape, in this little village that’s just two hours’ drive from Cape Town and part of the Robertson Wine Route. Dry-packed stone walls, gardens with abundant lemon, pomegranate, peach and apricot trees, heavily laden quince hedges and flourishing olive and almond groves line dusty country lanes unchanged over decades.
‘We were introduced to McGregor by our dear neighbours at Clifton beach, the Meltz’s, who fell in love with a Georgian gem known as McGregor Manor, a few years ago. We’ve been coming here ever since,’ explain owners, Alastair and Stephen Rich. ‘Now we live in Antibes for much of the year, but the spell of McGregor has well and truly captured our hearts… we come back regularly. It’s the quietness we love so much, resting your soul. It’s the sense of community, the warmth of friendships with like-minded people. You go for two days, and it feels like you’ve been away a month,’ says Stephen.
The restoration of the bedroom suites and building the new pool and pool house took a mere 14 months, but the original thatched middle cottage remains. A feat indeed, but their entire team moved from Joburg to live in McGregor during the transformation, which included the beautiful garden – now matured and abuzz with bees, butterflies and birds all year. We gave it ‘lipstick, powder and paint – except it took so much more,’ laughs Alastair. Indeed. So much more.
Together they sourced all the antiques and objets in France – even the little porcelain birds on the dining room light fitting (custom designed by Stephen) were bought in Antibes. ‘I’m particularly drawn to Pierneef, especially for the Cape settings,’ he says of his long-time passion. ‘Some I’ve been gifted, others found, but I feel like they finally belong here.’
It’s a delight to discover the armoires stacked with crockery in every shade of green, and the kitchen with the Portmeirion Botanic collection that’s been collected over the past 20 years. ‘The kitchen green was the most difficult hue to get right, but I love it as it reminds me of McGregor olive trees, vineyards and fruit orchards,’ says Stephen.
Cocooned and discreetly luxurious
Maison du Canard’s offering is luxurious: a departure (and an utter delight) for McGregor. Expect magically lit and topiary-landscaped gardens awash with lavender blooms in spring, and fragrant white jasmine and iceberg roses in the heat of summer, plus pool lights for night swimming, the meditative sounds of a water feature and thick lawn underfoot – a real luxury in McGregor.
Breathe in the cleanest and driest air, watch yellow weavers jostle with red bishops and seed eaters of all sizes at the bird feeders, let the warm caress of summer wash over you. Dip and dip again, flop wet and happy under chic black-and-white striped brolly’s, sip a glass of the valley’s flinty whites, or discover some of the best reds in the land. Recharge and rejuvenate. Simply let McGregor heal and restore.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon