For those with memories of the sunny, ‘Irish’ beach scenes in the 70s movie Ryan’s Daughter, the white sandy shores of Noordhoek beach below Sefarina first shot to fame when it doubled as the wild shores of the Dingle Peninsula. Not surprising, as there’s sunshine here pretty much year-round but the romantic charm of this corner of Noordhoek, in the Southern Peninsula, remains to this day.
Mainly because it’s set high above a protected 2000-year-old forest of ancient milkwood trees on the slopes of Chapman’s Peak… a peach of a location.
There’s no doubt that a stay at Sefarina, meaning ‘West Wind’, will feel somewhat otherworldly, mainly because of the unexpected juxtaposition of the deeply shaded milkwood forest below that gives way to its commanding location on the fynbos-clad hillside soaring above it.
In summer, semi-tropical undergrowth thrives in the welcome coolth of the tree canopy, which is alive with birdlife. Emerging through the treetops as the road winds its way up to Sefarina’s gates, the highest private home on the edge of Monkey Valley estate, it’s no wonder that after 20 years of coming here, it is still ‘a view that literally takes our breath away every time we arrive,’ say the owners.
But the family connection to this estate goes back even further, when Noordhoek was a somewhat remote village 35 years ago and mostly dotted with smallholdings, stables and paddocks, with a few beach houses on the dunes. Today, it has thankfully retained this charm and riding along this unspoilt beach on horseback remains one of the most exhilarating experiences.
Between the mountains and the deep blue sea
It is Sefarina’s rare combination of being so close to the mountain and the beach that makes a stay here so unique – made all the more attractive by the fact that guests can now access a path that crosses the adjoining National Park, leading directly down to the sandy shores.
Even so, many guests find it hard to leave this lofty perch with its inviting pool and entertaining deck commanding 360-degree views. Private decks also lead off all six sea-facing bedrooms, where quiet moments with a cup of coffee at dawn are a magical start to the day, as sunbirds and boubou shrikes bob from bush to bush.
Noordhoek’s legendary sunsets and long summer evenings are equally memorable here: as the heat of the day softens, avid surfers and horse riders slowly drift home while the unmistakable scent of fynbos and milkwood fills the air, along with the sound of owls on the move… and if you’re lucky enough you might just spot a mountain caracal during your stay. After a day spent on the beach or exploring the south peninsula, there’s no better place to enjoy a braai or meal together, whether it’s outdoors in the protected dining area above the pool or inside around a roaring fire.
Retreat to your cosy bedroom, each one individually decorated and with a newly renovated bathroom. Our favourite bath-with-a-view is in the spacious Borasco suite upstairs, named after the Mediterranean wind, but a hot contender is the Tuuli suite (beautifully gentle Finnish word for wind) that enjoys shafts of glorious afternoon sunlight with beautiful views of the mountain through its arched windows under the thatch.
But whichever suite you choose, Sefarina is a cosy and happy gathering place for friends and family, particularly if you enjoy being close to nature.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon