Surrounded by centuries-old olive and oak trees and fruits orchards, the perfect hideaway Masseria Le Torri in Polignano a Mare, Puglia, epitomises authentic Italian country living.
Masseria Le Torri, owned by Sylvana Bonelli and Domenico Pugliese, is Italian country farmhouse hospitality at its best. You’re guaranteed a genuinely warm welcome at this retreat space, loved for generations. ‘Here, between the olives, prickly pears, and laurel trees, stands our Masseria, a 17th-century farmhouse, that has been passed from father to son for generations and now to Mimmo, my husband,’ says Silvana. ‘Today, it has become an open refuge for those who love our land and its traditions.’
Just like in the past, sheets smell fresh, the true flavours come out of the kitchen, and everything is pervaded by the welcoming sense of mamma Enza. For her, the rooms always needed to be ready, and the table set – just in case a relative, a friend, or a neighbour came to visit her. This is what it used to be, and still is.’
Roses bloom in summer in the courtyard garden and the fragrance – combined with lavender, yarrow, and herbs – is heavenly in the early morning and evenings. In the distance, a glimpse of an old castle and a small trullo are reminders that life here remains unchanged.
Orchards of almonds, cherries, lemons, oranges, tangerines, and figs surround the Masseria, and seasonal vegetables are enjoyed every day.
‘Many pieces of handcrafted wooden furniture belong to our family and for us they are sentimental. And I’m very proud of our collection of old irons and porcelain,’ says Sylvana.
During the renovation of this luxury farm stay, which took nine years, they touched the structure as little as possible as original frescoes and Apulian limestone floors or chianca, dating back to the 1600s.
Luxury accommodation exuding unpretentious, organic charm
Parquet floors were upcycled from an old house and the lovely arched windows are shuttered. Olive branches are used for rails ‘recalling the farmer’s habit of hanging his jacket on a tree in the fields,’ they explain.
Soft, neutral fabrics offset calm whitewashed walls as they wanted to create minimal spaces, full of light, with the ‘charm of peasant simplicity’, local life, and ancient customs.
Wondering how you will spend your time at this unique holiday home? Masseria Le Torri offers an experience of slow living. Life is simple here. ‘Our days are marked by the play of light created by the sun. In the morning everything is pink but at around 6 pm everything turns to gold – the gold that anticipates beautiful orange- or fiery red sunsets. Then at night, it feels like touching the moon and the stars,’ muses Sylvana who embraces farm life, just as Mimmo’s family have done for generations.
And what makes Domenico and Sylvana happiest? ‘Work for us is having friends in the house that we haven’t met yet!’
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon
Edited by Dawn Kennedy