The place of the antbear
Small is indeed beautiful when it comes to luxury safari lodges in South Africa’s renowned Sabi Sand, but even more so at Dulini, where Moya, Leadwood and River Lodge each have their own distinctive character and charm.
‘Dulini’ is the African name for a termite mound or shelter, often the home of nocturnal creatures like the elusive aardvark but also to pangolins and warthogs. It was here, while walking along the river, that the founders of the original camp disturbed an aardvark or antbear… hence its name, ‘the place of the antbear’, a sought-after sanctuary in the wild.
Our arrival here at the private airstrip, just ahead of an approaching rainstorm, was nothing short of spectacular. To say it was dry was an understatement, so rain wasn’t going to dampen spirits of the day… instead, it would be a blessing. And pour it did, bringing with it an unmistakable petrichor moment – the distinctive scent of hot, parched earth responding to a powerful pelting as thunder rumbled and lightening crackled.
Yet it was a full two days before the dry Sand River ponds finally joined up again. And what an emotional moment that was, watching a silent trickle across the sand eventually set the river flowing again. Literally the stuff of documentaries! What followed was an unforgettable bushveld celebration…
Bird calls rang out with joy, impalas birthed, elephant families playfully interacted, and we even witnessed a male leopard swim across the newly flowing river (flicking his paws with annoyance as he alighted on the other side) to defend his territory. World-renowned for its Big Five – and particularly its big cats – the Sabi Sand did not disappoint, ending with a very special leopard cub sighting.
Wild luxury in the Sabi Sand
There are three exclusive safari camps to choose from here, each one unique so it’s hard to choose, unless you prefer a particular decor style. In fact, two nights at Moya, followed by two nights at either Leadwood or River Lodge is the perfect combo.
Dulini River Lodge’s suites are serene and light, their interiors layered in chalky whites, with textured wallpapers and light woods. With only six suites, each one with its own heated plunge pool and a view of the Sand River where leopard often roam, Dulini River Lodge is small enough to book exclusively and loved by honeymooners.
Dulini Leadwood Lodge’s suites are in calming tones of pebble grey, contrasting with natural dark woods and each one has a fireplace making them wonderfully cosy in winter (peak season). Set on the edge of the river, its multi-levelled design makes it feel more like a private home. There are only four suites here, making it easy to book the entire lodge exclusively.
But the original camp, set along the meandering Mabrak River, is Dulini Moya: its more traditional safari style leaning towards leather Chesterfields and Persian carpets, elegant four posters and spacious thatched suites. All set in lush, indigenous gardens – a truly tranquil sanctuary.
What we love!
- The personal touch and guest interaction with the passionate owners Sue and Iain Garrett, who co-founded the Dulini Collection in 2016, but have a historic relationship with this special place – they first managed the lodge over 30 years ago when it was a private retreat.
- Cats, cats, cats everywhere – there’s good reason why guests are drawn from around the world to spend time here in their domain. Sightings and game drives are exceptional.
- The food. It’s creative, fun, full of new flavours and generous. Eating on the Treehouse deck at Leadwood, under the Jackalberry tree, is particularly memorable.
- Meals reflect a move towards healthy eating and creative flavour pairings (although desserts here are a complete indulgence!). Dulini’s chefs and sommeliers take the time to chat at each table.
- The trees: ancient leadwood and ebony trees shade the riverbanks at River Lodge and Leadwood, but you choose to lunch under the giant sausage tree at River Lodge – keep an eye out for those pods!
What you need to know…
- Honeymooners often choose River Lodge or Leadwood Lodge – suites are very private, and staff are intuitive – giving you the space you need and offering various dining options at night.
- Children over 8 are welcome.
- Game vehicles seat a maximum of six and, thoughtful touches make all the difference here: in the box between the seats, you’ll not only find your warm poncho but protective eyewear for those who might have forgotten theirs (10/10 Dulini!), insect repellent, sunscreen and binoculars.
- We love the fact that Airlink flies guests in direct from Cape Town to Mbombela (Nelspruit) and then swiftly on to Ulusaba private airstrip, so you can have an early beach walk that morning and arrive fresh as a daisy and in time for your game drive in the afternoon! Their schedules are perfectly timed for international flights too.
- Flights from Joburg to the private airstrip are with Federal Air. The transfer to the lodge is 20 minutes.
- Commercial flights also arrive at Skukuza, inside the Kruger National Park, a one-hour drive from Dulini.
- The lodge is located in a malaria area – As malaria is present in the Mpumalanga region where the lodge is situated, it is essential to ensure that anti-malaria precautions be taken throughout the year. Please consult your travel clinic.
- Further information can be obtained from the Kruger National Park Malaria Hotline on +27 (0) 822341800 or +27 (0) 822341800.
- Children from 8 years and older are welcome. A child is considered 8-16 years old and will be charged 50% of the full adult sharing rate when sharing with at least one adult. Should there be a full camp booking; children of any age will be welcome. This applies to all three lodges.
- If Dulini’s lodges are not available on your dates, you can look at other options. Consider our luxury safari stays in the Sabi Sand Nature Reserve. Or, browse our full collection of Big Five African safaris with luxury safari accommodation.
Reviewed by Michelle Snaddon