by Michelle Snaddon
Rediscover the prettiest stone villages of Provence, where the sun shines for most of the year and the concept of ‘slow travel’ is as old as the olive groves… just the way we like it!
BEST PLACES TO STAY PROVENCE
Follow in our footsteps and discover our handpicked collection of beautifully restored mas or farmhouses, much-loved family hideaways and boutique stays. Each one in our growing collection is in a beautiful heritage area with unspoilt countryside surrounding it. There’s a delightful sense of time-stood-still here. Of provenance. Of a sense of belonging, of a life that is good. So good, you’d be tempted to live here.
Where do I start?
Luckily, most of our hideaways are within an hour or two from each other but there’s so much to see in each area that the best way to start is make sure you can set aside 10 days to two weeks for this trip. The secret to slow travel is to immerse yourself in the rhythms of the countryside: before long you’ll begin to really relax and enjoy languid lunches, spontaneous river swims, take a walk every evening at sundown, stop and watch a game of boules or spend hours browsing markets for antiques and linens. In this part of the world, there is simply no way of hurrying this either as everything closes for the afternoon in the heat!
In between, you might want to follow in the footsteps of Van Gogh or Cezanne, have capacity for an air-conditioned art gallery or two, enjoy soaking up the sound of the bells while you light a candle in the hushed coolth of a village church. Or simply spend the afternoon dipping in and out of your own pool and enjoying your garden.
Our passion for France is all about the simple things: shutters in the prettiest Provençal blues, succulent figs, stripey butterflies and the colour of lavender ice cream!
Fresh baguettes, local cheeses, olives and wine will be packed for picnics on day trips to neighbouring towns and villages, and the days will simply whizz by… You might even succumb to lavender ice cream, will consume boxes of the ripest cherries and certainly pack in a mille-feuille or two.
Our best advice for a road trip the PH way?
Stay in a small village that has slipped under the radar of most tourists, so that you can experience France at its most authentic. Nothing is too far away in this area, so day trips to the coast are easy. Or you could do a week in a Provençal village and a week on the French Riviera’s glam Côte d’Azur. This blog is focused on the smaller villages inland, away from the summer crowds (with a day trip to Cassis for a swim in the Med as an option!).
When to go?
Sizzling hot summer days are filled with the unmistakable buzz of cicadas and tweeting swallows. Off peak is best: consider avoiding July and August and either travelling in May or June or waiting till September and October. Autumn in the country is spectacular, as is spring… and both are much better value than peak season.
Country farmhouse or a hideaway in a characterful village?
Staying in both is best! Spend some time near towns like Uzès, Arles, Nimes or Aix en Provence first so that you can soak up the cultural sights, art galleries and food or antique markets first. End with a peaceful farm stay, where you can walk, swim, cycle, take in a cookery course or even learn to paint. Do wine and olive tastings, visit a lavender farm, stock up on the region’s artisanal Savon de Marseille soaps at a savonnerie.
BEST PLACES TO STAY NEAR UZÈS
Maison des Arts is also the home of two artists, Sandrine and Dom, both with studios just across the courtyard.
Maison des Arts is also the home of two artists, Sandrine and Dom, both with studios just across the courtyard.
Maison des Arts is young, hip and just a little bit off-the-wall. A place where you can have a lot of fun with five couples together or an extended family holiday, especially if you’re travelling from all over the world.
But it’s the pool we loved so much: set up a secret staircase on an upper floor above the courtyard, it’s open to the wide blue sky – and it has direct access to the park-like garden behind (the largest in the village). Having graced the pages of many a glossy magazine, the garden has hosted weddings, milestone celebrations and even photo shoots.
Of course, one of the most unusual aspects to staying here is that the owners are designers and artists Sandrine and Dom. Their original art graces the walls throughout, and Sandrine has a small boutique for her ceramics. Both have studios at Maison des Arts (ask if you can pop in!) and will fill you in on all the summer festivals and exhibitions. They’ll recommend a visit Saint-Quentin-La-Poterie, a nearby village full of ceramic studios – often open for lessons.
Quaint and rural, Montaren-et-Saint-Médiers is a gem of a village perched on a hill and with the perfect balance of antique and brocante shops, a boulangerie, épicerie and not much more… keeping it under the radar and off-the-beaten track. You will love it – as it’s literally under 5kms from Uzès if coming from the north so you can walk if you wish. But take it from us, staying in Uzès isn’t as restful: there isn’t a more heavenly spot to retreat to after a day in Uzès or any of the surrounding villages.
Mas du Marechal as close to the Pont du Gard as you’ll get. This relaxed family home was once a barn that now has a combined living open-plan living area downstairs, but two separate staircases lead to the upstairs bedrooms which are still divided by a wall, ideal for multigenerational families, some of whom are up earlier than others!
A few restaurants and cafes buzz with locals, and everyone knows everyone. La Grange, on the Place de la Fonteine, is known for its organic wines and live music. During the day, this bistro is also a great place to have coffee and cake. It’s closed Monday and Tuesday but open all weekend.
BEST PLACE TO STAY IN THE LUBERON
Enchanting Maison Parpaille, a restored family farmhouse just 10 minutes from Lourmarin.
Maison Parpaille’s farmhouse has five romantic suites, each one individually decorated and each one with a different view and its own fragrance. Little touches – antique embroidered curtains, postcards to journal on, or better still write a love-letter (yes, writing is still an honoured craft in France!)… even the matchbox has a message for you.
And somehow, this charming pair manage babies and dogs (both welcome!) and everything that goes with running a farm (you can get married here, have a yoga retreat, visit Lea (Eve’s daughter) at her new ceramic studio… or simply chill by the main pool where there’s an informal dining area and kitchen. Cocktails, lounge music and summer sun among the lavender and cypress trees. Is there anything not to love?
Villa Tafuri, near Nardò, dates back to the 1400s and is 15 minutes from the historic town of Nardò, one of Puglia’s least explored gems
Families will love the Gite Armandine, named after the almond tree in the garden. This two-bedroomed, private hideaway is adjacent to the farmhouse, but its entrance is separate. Self-catering is easy here with a family as it has a fully equipped kitchen and beautiful private outdoor eating area.
Maison Parpaille’s self-catering gite is ideal for families.
Gite Armandine overlooks the farm’s fields and has a view up towards the gentle hills of the Luberon from its breakfast terrace, and the living room overlooks the lush gardens and main pool area.
If you’re not having an art gallery day in Aix-en-Provence, or spending time exploring the surrounding villages, you could head off before breakfast for a day trip to Cassis for a seafood lunch or boat cruise and a swim in the Med. Swap your cozzie for your prettiest dress and enjoy the evening vibe in Lourmarin on your way home, where restaurants spill out onto the cobbles – often with live music.
SOUTH OF FRANCE IN A NUTSHELL
Luckily our hideaways are set in a ‘triangle’, plus this area of France has excellent fly-in and rail connections, so your options are numerous!
By train: By far the fastest from Paris is the Paris-Avignon train (fastest on TGV INOUI at 2h36 or TGV 3h25). Chat to our team about transfers or hiring a car from here.
By air: Uzès is easily accessible from airports in Nimes (35 mins) or Avignon (45 mins) airports. Or you can fly into Montpellier (1 hour away) or Marseilles (1h40). Montpellier is our preferred option as it’s a much smaller airport. Maison Parpaille is quickest to get to from Marseilles (1 hour). It’s also an easy drive to Montpellier (2 hours).
There are often better connections and, importantly, arrival times off international routes coming into Marseilles or Nice. You should aim to arrive in the early morning, especially if you’re hiring a car and want to check in just after lunch. Nice is 3.5-4 hours from most of the smaller Provençal villages inland, whereas Marseilles.
Private charter? Uzès-Belvezet aerodrome is 15 minutes away. Maison des Arts and Mas du Marechal are both close to Uzès.
How long does it take to drive between these hideaways?
From Maison des Arts and Mas du Marechal near Uzès, it is about two hours’ scenic drive towards the Luberon, where you’ll discover Maison Parpaille. Situated just outside Curcuron, and between the gorgeous villages of Lourmarin and Ansouis, this is an excellent combination. Lourmarin is at the start of the route inland that takes you to Gordes (one of the prettiest villages in Provence) via Bonnieux and the ochre cliffs of Roussillon.
Cassis is currently our favourite on the coast, so if the glamour of Villa des Calanques is your scene, then Nice or Marseilles are good airport options. Marseilles (50 mins) and Nice (2h40) are the most convenient.
If your best option is to fly into Geneva as it has many good international connections, you can always combine Provence with the Swiss Alps or even a stay on Lake Annecy, halfway between the two. It’s a good 5-hour drive from Geneva to Uzès so book a minimum of a week. The prettiest and most relaxing route to Geneva is via Grenoble and Annecy (not Lyon), through the nut-growing region and with spectacular mountain scenery along the way.
How long do we need?
Two weeks is perfect. Ideally off-peak and with four days to a week in one place, which truly gives you a chance to relax, soak up the slow living lifestyle of the French countryside and its little villages. Or combine a week in Provence with a week in Italy or Switzerland, or the Côte d’Azur. That said, the Mediterranean beaches are only just over an hour’s drive from these hideaways.
THINGS TO DO
There are so many markets, cultural events and art exhibitions on in the summer that it’s worth planning your stay around specific antique markets (look them all up online and keep those days available as they are a highlight), special art exhibitions and even classical music concerts.
Exploring Uzès and the Pont du Gard
Set aside at least two days to pop into Uzès, giving you time to wander the side streets where you’ll discover stylish boutiques, art galleries and its famous market, of course.
Maison des Arts is so close to historic Uzès that you can walk (4kms) but it’s easier to drive in the heat. A good parking to choose is in the shade of the plane trees at Promenade des Marronniers on the park side of La Cathédrale Saint Théodorit d’Uzès (1090 but rebuilt in 1652). It’s worth spending some quiet time here.
From here, head straight into the heart of the old town and simply wander, stopping at its stylish boutiques, listening to the bells, popping into galleries or exploring the market and eating ice cream. The famous Uzès market is on Saturday. People-watching is obligatory here.
If you’ve watched Rick Stein’s Secret France, you’ll find Ten restaurant about five minutes’ walk away. One of our favourite stops, among the chi-chi boutiques, is the teeny tiny Japanese design store called Liiocô (3 Rue Pélisserie). Don’t miss the back streets! And come back one evening when everything is lit up.
Pont du Gard, the first-century AD Roman masterpiece is just 15 mins south of Uzès. A designated car park (currently 9E per car, flat fee) is about 20 minutes’ walk from the aqueduct itself. In summer, we recommend you go late afternoon or early evening when sound and light shows are projected onto the walls – spectacular. Or do as the locals do and pack a delicious picnic and walk across to the other side where there are lovely sandy swimming beaches. Spot the 1000-year-old olive trees along the way.
You can walk to the famous Roman aqueduct from Mas du Marechal. It’s only 2.2kms away on foot through idyllic countryside and forest – just watch out for the nettles in summer! Great route for jogging, especially when quiet in the early morning. History buffs can book a tour with a guide on the ‘Roman Route’.
We loved that both hideaways are close enough to dine out in Uzès one night but if you’re exploring towards the Gorge de Gardon, book a table at the priory about 15 mins’ drive away at Le Prieuré Saint Nicolas (their pop-up restaurant, Locus Solus and its shaded terrace, will reopen in spring 2025 for lunch. Book far ahead for dinners in the grand chapel or one of their concerts).
Possibilities for day trips are endless: Arles, Nîmes (don’t miss the architecturally striking new Musée de la Romanité and the Arène de Nîmes next door), Avignon (love its food hall, Les Halles), L’Isle sur la Sorge’s (brocante, antiques and canals) and loads more… Antique and brocante market lovers should plan their stay around market dates, all of which are detailed in the house folder. Check-in days in summer at Mas du Marechal are Fridays, which means you’ll be able to visit all the weekend markets plus those open on Mondays and Thursdays.
Exploring Ansouis, Lourmarin and the Luberon
Ansouis is a gem, atop a small hill. Wander slowly and discover secret courtyards and pretty terraces. Roses, olives, figs and views forever…
If you’re staying at Maison Parpaille, you must pop into little-known Ansouis nearby, with its 10th-century castle. Have lunch with a view and a friendly welcome at Les Terasses de Ansouis, but serious foodies should book La Closerie, a Michelin-starred gem.
Explore the side streets and take time to rest in the tranquil Église Saint-Martin d’Ansouis, especially on the hour when all the village bells ring out from their traditional metal steeples. This quaint church has one of the prettiest interiors with faded blue walls.
Ansouis is literally 10 minutes from Domaine Parpaille. Parking is plentiful and the foot of the village and it’s a short walk uphill into the characterful side streets. Or cycle here and park up in the centre of the village, where you’ll discover a photographic history of the village depicted on canvas, hung just beneath the medieval walls of the chateau.
Lourmarin gets it just right: vibrant live music and tables spilling out on the streets at dusk, wine tasting and classical music concerts in the chateau.
Dinner in Lourmarin (10 minutes in the other direction) is a must. It comes alive at night with restaurant tables spilling out onto the street in summer, often with live music. Visit Château de Lourmarin for a wine tasting or concerts – book ahead. Lourmarin is by far the most ‘international’ of the villages here… well-heeled travellers come for its vibrant street life, charming architecture, classical concerts in the chateau and lively restaurants.
Lourmarin is en-route to Bonnieux, Roussillon and the hilltop village of Gordes in one direction, and not far from Aix-en-Provence, St Remy or Les Baux-de Provence in the other. All utterly beautiful and worth a visit.
It’s worth setting aside a day or three to do a few day trips: if you stop in Roussillon on the way to Gordes, avoid the crowds by parking below the ochre cliffs where you’ll discover a path through the trees that takes you to the dramatic foot of the cliffs. Hot? Try the local lemon or lavender ice-cream.
Gordes is lauded as one of the prettiest villages in France. It’s worth leaving early and spending a whole day here (Senanque Abbey, nearby, is also spectacular when the lavender is in flower). Swing by for a wine tasting at Chateau la Canorgue along the way, if you wish. It was the first certified organic wine estate in the region. The house, where the movie was filmed, isn’t open to the public.
Don’t miss:
- The Carrières des Lumières, at the foot of the town of Les Baux – it’s an incredible interactive exhibition projected underground on the walls of the white limestone quarry that dates back to Roman times.
- The antique markets: catch market day (Thursday and Sunday) at L’Isle sur la Sorgue, the ‘Venice of the South’ with its canals and antique shops. It is only one hour away from Uzès and about an hour’s drive from Cucuron or Lourmarin.
- Chateau la Coste’s art and architecture walk takes you through parkland featuring over 40 sculptures, half way between Cucuron and Aix-en-Provence. Aix en Provence has some excellent art galleries, particularly for Van Gogh and Cezanne (you’ll recognise his beloved Mont St Victoire on your way to the Côte d’Azur).
Day trips to the coast
From Maison Parpaille in the Luberon: Cassis is a good choice. Leave at dawn and make the most of your day at this bustling harbour and the surrounding calanques. It’s an hour south on the motorway (tolls). Ask before you leave Maison Parpaille about the secret parking place under a tree if you don’t feel like paying for parking in a garage and walk the scenic route downhill to the harbour and beach.
The best sushi restaurant, Le Grand Large, is away from the crowds to the left of the main beach. Doodle through the back streets (there are some gorgeous traditional soap boutiques such as Boutique La Savonnette Marseillaise and artisanal delis such as Autrefois on the way) before wandering through the botanical garden on your way back up the hill.
Don’t miss Cassis boutiques such as Boutique La Savonnette Marseillaise and artisanal delis such as Autrefois.
From Mas du Marechal or Maison des Arts: your house manuals are chock-full of insider info, but you can also or chat to the owners for family friendly and naturalist beaches. Le Grau du Roi beach (the town was an old fishing village) or Carnon Plage, are both just outside Montpellier… but honestly, you’ll be so smitten with this area of Provence that you’ll find it hard to get everyone packed in the car for a day at the beach!
Whatever you decide, go with the flow, let the concept of Slow Travel reveal itself and focus on getting to know one small village. There’s nothing quite like an authentic immersion in a way of life that has been in existence for 100’s of years… it is just beyond belief that we’ve all missed out on it for so long. Except the French, of course!
Need help curating your dream French itinerary? Paula Autiere-Herbert is our in-house France expert. After years of living in France (and marrying a Frenchman!), her insider knowledge ensures your French holiday is effortlessly chic and authentically local. Email [email protected] to book your luxury accommodation in Provence today.
Photographs: Michelle Snaddon
