Situated on a conservancy bordering the world-renowned Etosha National Park, The Fort at Onguma offers the sensational experience of watching giraffe meander past to nibble on the Camel Thorn trees as you sip sundowners by the pool. Its rather exotic architectural style is said to be Moroccan-Afro but it’s part riad, part desert fort with interiors that are decadent yet understated.

Every private bungalow opens to the surrounding savannah and many have views of the permanent water hole overlooking Fisher’s Pan, inviting lazy days quietly observing wildlife in their natural habitat. The living area is lofty and breezy, opening to the impressive pool with drinks tables for cooling off between game drives.  The rooftop deck is the place to head every evening for dramatic African sunsets overlooking Etosha.

Onguma Reserve comprises a staggering 34 000 hectares of bushveld. It’s home to a variety of plains game, over 300 bird species, and all the Big Five – including a recently introduced family of black rhino. Game drives can be done in Etosha National Park and Onguma Reserve, or one can experience an interpretive bush walk followed by a relaxing massage.

What we love!

• Staying in a conservancy just outside Etosha National Park allows access to excellent wildlife away from the large tourist groups typical of the national park
• That game drives are done in small groups, allowing a more personal experience
• Enjoying an alfresco dinner under the stars to the chorus of lion roaring in the distance

What you need to know …

• Onguma is roughly six hours’ drive from Windhoek, with several options for stops along the way. Alternately, flights are a quick hop and small aircraft depart regularly from the international airport
• Only children over seven are allowed at The Fort, but the Bush Camp on the conservancy is ideal for children (there are five camps and lodges in total on the concession)
• Onguma can be booked on a fully inclusive basis so you can rest completely

There are 11 bush suites and 1 honeymoon suite (sleeps 24 in total).

Reviewed by Willow Constantine