by Michelle Snaddon
Our top 10 self-catering safaris for the wildest – and most private – bush escape that’s a cost-effective way of going on safari as a family.
Big Five self-catering
If you’re not a fan of lodges or hotels, you’ll love our self-catering bush safaris for the sheer joy of being so private: it’s a unique experience, especially if you have kids. Here’s a round-up of our top 10, 8 of which are in Big Five reserves.
Ukuthula House, Mjejane, Greater Kruger
Ukuthula House has that magical combination of six equally styled en-suite bedrooms for friends and family to escape together, but it also has a massive, fun kids bunk room with a superb play area and air-conditioning – a rare find at any bush house, making it a welcome escape come winter or summer.
Equally, all of the bedrooms have the same view of the magnificent Crocodile River and the game-rich bush of the Kruger National Park across hippo-filled pools.
Often the game viewing from the rim-flow pool or the Moroccan-style roof terrace upstairs is as good as going on a game drive… with the added bonus of seeing what’s happening down the river from this lofty look-out. Expect colourful interiors and staff who will spoil you, with the added bonus that pre-shopping is easy here.
Need to know: Ukuthula House is about 4 hours from Joburg or an hour’s drive from KMIA, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, near Nelspruit. It is a great stopover if you’re doing the Nelspruit-Mozambique road trip route via Komatipoort but most guests love Mjejane’s location, between Malelane and Crocodile Bridge gates.
Even better, Mjejane currently has direct access to Kruger via a bridge so you can explore Mjejane and the southern Kruger National Park with ease. The reserve itself is 4 000ha and offers excellent Big Five game viewing but having private, direct access to the Greater Kruger via the Mjejane bridge is a winner, as the queues at the public gates can be long in peak season.
Game drives do not need to be booked ahead: Ukuthula House has its own game vehicle and you cannot self-drive in this private reserve (only traverse to and from the gate to your private house). Strict game speed limits apply. Two game drives are included in your stay.
Self-catering insider tips: If you’re flying within South Africa, you can pop a cooler bag into the hold via the fragile counter. Stock up on lovely salads (and hermetically pre-sealed meat), cleverly thought out to last as fresh produce can be difficult to get once out on the road.
If you do need to shop on the way, the best is to head straight from the airport to Malelane (SuperSpar and butcher) before shopping. These stores are exceptionally busy at the end of the month, so chat to us about ordering supplies in advance via the house manager.
Otherwise, drive up with all your food supplies if coming from Joburg. There are Parks Board shops in each of the campsites in the Kruger, so if you find yourself exploring the Malelane-Crocodile Bridge route for the day, you can also stock up at Parks Board campsite shops but generally only good for essentials.
Eagle Owl Camp, Timbavati, Greater Kruger
One of the best-kept secrets of the Timbavati, Eagle Owl Camp is a delight. Contemporary interiors lead to an oasis of a garden and pool, making this safari camp feel more like a home than a classic bush hideaway.
It has two bomas, one leading off the living area and with a view onto the river bed and plains beyond, and the other sheltered for lantern-lit dinners on cool evenings. Four equal suites (two with double window beds for additional guests) make this the ideal escape for couples.
Need to know: Eagle Owl Camp is about 45 minutes’ drive from Hoedspruit Airport to the Timbavati, Greater Kruger. You can self-drive but transfers are usually arranged for guests.
Once at Eagle Owl, you park your car and all driving in the reserve is on their dedicated 8-seater game vehicle with a qualified ranger. Two game drives are included in your stay. If you’re flying in via private charter, Rock Fig airstrip is the closest and you will be collected from there by your ranger.
Self-catering insider tips: Eagle Owl Camp offers a pre-ordering option for food and drinks from Hoedspruit for self-catering guests. Send your list through well ahead of time, and everything will be delivered and waiting for you in the fridges on arrival.
A catered option is also available here: worth doing if you’re short on time as their chef is good! The lodge comes with a full team of staff, however a chef will only cook if you’re booking the catered meals.
Thuleni Homestead, Manyoni Private Game Reserve
Built by a local family who love the bush, this is a home that has been much-loved over the years, and for good reason: it is family friendly. Two of the five suites in the main Thuleni Homestead have an additional bed so that little ones can room-in (ever tried to get a little one to sleep with a lion roaring nearby?) and because no-one has to walk through the bush to get to their bedroom – they are all linked together under one roof. The new private pod is 20m from the main house. Its sustainable design is by eco-architect Richard Stretton.
Need to know: Thuleni Homestead is the ideal bush and beach combo as it’s just over three hours’ drive from King Shaka International Airport (or six hours from Joburg) but once through the reserve gate, it’s about an hour from some truly beautiful dive spots along the coast as well as the Isimangaliso Wetland, a protected area of inland lakes to explore by boat and witness ancient, sustainable fishing techniques. Just further north is the unspoilt Kosi Bay, with superb snorkelling and miles of pristine coastline to explore.
This is 4×4 country and it’s on the Mozambique border, so a quick trip to Ponta d’Oro is also possible (and Ponta is just over an hour’s drive to the jazz capital Maputo on the new road). Speak to one of our team if you’d like to find out more or read our blog: Follow the Sun.
Self-catering insider tips: King Shaka International Airport has a small Woolworths, so you could hop in your hired car and head out up the coast to Ballito Junction where the choice is better. You’ll get everything you need there.
You can buy two flat-packed cooler bags and use these for day trips to the game reserves. If you run out of something essential, you can ask the ranger/guide to find out when someone is next popping through to the shops at Mkuze, but it’s best to bring everything with you. The house is stocked with the basics such as tea, coffee, oil, salt and pepper.
Ingwe Lodge, Manyoni Private Game Reserve
Our newest addition to the portfolio in the Big Five Manyoni Private Game Reserve is Ingwe Lodge with its five freestanding suites. Sophisticated and comfortable, this beautifully located lodge is spread along a ridge with beautiful views over the waterhole.
KZN architect Lisa Rorich has worked on several lodges, so she understands the indoor-outdoor lifestyle of this wild yet extraordinarily biodiverse region. Ingwe Lodge embodies the best of this seamless design in each one of the private suites too where hot tubs beckon on each deck overlooking the bush.
Need to know: Ingwe Lodge is just over three hours’ drive from King Shaka International Airport (or six hours from Joburg) but once through the reserve gate, it’s about an hour from some truly beautiful dive spots along the coast as well as the Isimangaliso Wetland, a protected area of inland lakes to explore by boat and witness ancient, sustainable fishing techniques. Just further north is the unspoilt Kosi Bay, with superb snorkelling and miles of pristine coastline to explore.
This is 4×4 country and it’s on the Mozambique border, so a quick trip to Ponta d’Oro is also possible (and Ponta is just over an hour’s drive to the jazz capital Maputo on the new road). Speak to one of our team if you’d like to find out more or read our blog: Follow the Sun.
Self-catering insider tips: King Shaka International Airport has a small Woolworths, so you could hop in your hired car and head out up the coast to Ballito Junction where the choice is better. You’ll get everything you need there. You can buy two flat-packed cooler bags and use these for day trips to the game reserves. If you run out of something essential, you can ask the ranger/guide to find out when someone is next popping through to the shops at Mkuze, but it’s best to bring everything with you.
Dinokeng Private Bush House
There’s something to be said for arriving off an international flight and being surrounded by the sounds of the bush within an hour.
It’s an immediate balm, as is the super team here: chef whisks away your cooler bag (pre-shopping also available for those who don’t want the hassle of thinking about meals or arriving off international flights), and a game drive awaits.
With the option to book this luxurious bush escape exclusively, or book per suite (their family suite is superb), it’s a very flexible weekend hideaway. Game viewing is in a private vehicle.
Need to know: Dinokeng Private Bush House is a mere one-hour drive from the airport. Make sure you don’t miss sundowners and get here before dusk. The drive here is super easy, with only the last few kilometres taking you off the highway and into the reserve.
That said, once here, you feel incredibly private and far from the madding world out there. It’s the ideal place to decompress before continuing on to Waterberg, Marataba or Marakele regions… or to the Greater Kruger.
Self-catering insider tips: Bring everything with you: if you’re flying in, there’s a Woolworths at OR Tambo for supplies, and when you arrive, Dinokeng’s in-house chef will cook your meal for you. Alternatively, you can book meals prior to arriving and have dinner ready and waiting for you!
Nkala, Black Rhino Private Reserve, PIlanesberg
For years, memories of Nkala will undoubtedly be of the deck at the waterhole where a herd of elephants is likely to appear out of the bush at a moment’s notice. Set on an ancient game path, there are times when it’s really not necessary to go on a game drive as the game comes to you.
Keep an eye on the webcam when you’re having dinner and if a hyena or another nocturnal wanderer comes to cool off or have a sip at the waterhole, you can tiptoe down the pathway to the hide and watch. Bonus: this is a wonderfully family friendly lodge with a kids suite and rooming-in options for little ones too.
Need to know: Nkala is in the Black Rhino Private Reserve, just two hour’s drive from the northern suburbs or Lanseria Airport. It is the ‘other side’ of Pilanesberg and traversing is allowed into Pilansberg from Black Rhino, but not the other way round so vehicles in the private reserve are limited.
A day spent driving to the viewpoints overlooking Pilanesberg is highly recommended. Nkala’s light-filled interiors are beautifully done, with spacious en-suite bathrooms, but it’s the chef’s kitchen and open-plan entertaining area that is unexpectedly well kitted out. The team allow you to self-cater, or you can arrange pre-shopping and book a chef: best of both worlds!
Self-catering insider tips: If you’re flying into Lanseria, stop at the incredible farm store called Jasmyn, near Hartebeespoort (look for the landmark windmill). Or pop into Broadacres shopping centre, closer to Hartebeespoort and you’ll find everything there. Equally, there is some pre-shopping support from the lodge if you need.
Their closest large shops are in Rustenberg so there is a cost added to the pre-shopping service. Again, you can choose to order dinners and breakfast rather than bringing your own, but the kitchen is so well equipped that it’s very easy to self-cater.
Star Chestnut Lodge, Mjejane, Greater Kruger
Star Chestnut’s contemporary design is unapologetically bold, embracing its setting with double-volume living areas, light-filled bedroom suites and a glam rooftop terrace that has bird’s eye views of the Crocodile River below. Many milestone birthdays have been celebrated here, starting with sundowners under coral-pink bushveld skies.
Its six river-facing suites are at the front, facing the river, while two teen rooms with extra wide bunks and a games room are across a central landscaped courtyard within this fenced stand – heaven for older kids who want to relax together away from parents.
Need to know: Star Chestnut Lodge is about 4 hours’ drive from Joburg or an hour from KMIA, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, near Nelspruit. It is a great stopover if you’re doing the Nelspruit-Mozambique road trip route via Komatipoort but most guests love Mjejane’s location, between Malelane and Crocodile Bridge gates.
Even better, Mjejane currently has direct access to Kruger via a bridge so you can explore Mjejane and the southern Kruger National Park with ease.
The reserve itself is 4 000ha and offers excellent Big Five game viewing but having private, direct access to the Greater Kruger via the Mjejane bridge is a winner, as the queues at the public gates can be long in peak season.
Game drives need to be booked ahead: Star Chestnut Lodge has its own vehicle and you cannot self-drive in this private reserve (only traverse to and from the gate to your private house). Strict game speed limits apply. Two game drives are included in your stay.
Self-catering insider tips: If you’re flying internally, you can pop a cooler bag into the hold via the fragile counter. Stock up on lovely salads (and hermetically pre-sealed meat), cleverly thought out to last as fresh produce can be difficult to get once out on the road.
Otherwise, head straight out from the airport to the Woolworths in White River, or drive as far as Malelane before shopping. It’s wise to avoid these stores at the end of the month, so chat to us about ordering supplies in advance via the house manager.
Baobab Hill, Pafuri, Northern Kruger
For those in the know, the Pafuri region is the most biodiverse in the Kruger area. The landscape is truly spectacular: gorges, baobabs, prolific birdlife and fever tree forests await. Baobab Hill is one of the most charming and was once a ranger’s station but is now a comparatively luxurious retreat and even has Wi-Fi!
Shaded by the branches of one of the ancient baobabs of this area it feels as though time has stood still here. Temperatures can soar here, but with a deep verandah and pool to chill in, it’s a heavenly oasis.
Need to know: Pafuri, in the northern Kruger, is often recommended for second-time safari goers yet it offers so much more. Set on a ridge just north of the Luvuvhu River and near the dramatic Lanner Gorge, it’s a mecca for twitchers. The house has a cook, housekeeper and camp-hand to make your stay super comfortable – you literally need to arrive with your food and drinks (or book the catered option).
Put aside a day to drive to the hauntingly beautiful fever tree forests near Crook’s Corner, an area alive with legend and folklore. You have a professional guide and game vehicle at your disposal, but we recommend you explore with your guide on foot for an authentic bush experience.
Self-catering insider tips: You can book the house on a catered or self-catered basis. Driving to Pafuri is a long journey, so it’s a good idea to break it or fly-in with a cooler bag of supplies.
Given that it’s far north, many road trippers combine a stay here with another stop along the Panorama Route, making it possible to stock up on fresh supplies along the way. If you only have a few days, choose the catered option and fly in to the private airstrip.
Bush experiences
Camp Karoo, Eastern Cape
Camp Karoo’s charm lies in the fact that it’s nestled on a hillside with 180-degree views, yet at night, you won’t see a single light twinkling for miles around: only the brightest stars in the sky.
With its own private game vehicle and a pool within sight of the verandah (sit quietly and watch the game drop by to join you for a drink at G&T hour), it’s a veritable oasis in this rugged terrain. Wonderful family friendly option!
Need to know: Camp Karoo is not in a Big Five reserve (although the farm does have buffalo, giraffe and other antelope) literally an hour away from Addo Elephant Park, reached via the route through the Kirkwood, where you’ll find the nearest shops.
This is a pretty route, particularly in spring when the citrus trees are in blossom. Addo is easily accessible and can also be done on the way back to Port Elizabeth Airport if you leave very early in the morning and are taking a late afternoon flight out.
Camp Karoo is also wonderful base from which to explore the Great Karoo with historic towns such as Graaff-Reinet and characterful Nieu-Bethesda an easy day trip away. If you have time, visit the Valley of Desolation or the fascinating fossil museum at Ganora near Nieu-Bethesda.
Self-catering insider tips: Shopping in Port Elizabeth is time consuming because the shops are not exactly on the way. There are shops in the direction of Walmer, about 10 minutes from the airport but you’ll save a lot of time if you bring a cooler bag of food to last you two days and then pop in to Kirkwood (30 minutes away) to stock up on meat, veggies and fresh salad, if you’re stying a while.
Alternately, pre-shopping can be arranged. There are basics in the house, such as olive oil and other condiments, and the freezer is stocked with emergencies if you need.
Cypiro Collection
Cypiro Leopard Lodge, adjacent to the Big Five Marakele National Park, is an ideal destination for multigenerational families our groups of friends with five different options to book: the Manor House (sleeps 10), The View and The Hacienda (both sleep 4), and two romantic new pods called Ebony and Ivory, bringing the total to 22.
Cypiro is included in our ‘bush experiences’ as it is in a private game reserve but to see the Big Five, you need to book a drive in the Marakele National Park. We love the terrain here: it’s hilly and diverse.
Need to know: Just over three hours’ drive from OR Tambo airport, Cypiro Leopard Lodge is easy to get to by car, but it’s also possible to fly in to the airstrip near Marataba. Being a game farm without predators, daily walks, bush runs, self-drive game drives and horse riding are all on offer.
Self-catering insider tips: Cyprio is a hybrid too: you can bring all your own food or you can order meals before arrival (on confirmation, at the time of booking). The town of Thabazimbi isn’t far away (20 mins by car) so if you need to stock up it’s easy to do so at the Mall.
Would you like to book a self-catering safari? We’d love to share our experiences with you, especially if this is your first time in the bush.
Feel free to contact our safari experts on [email protected]
